The French parliament has passed a revised “anti–ultra-fast fashion” bill, introducing stricter regulations on online fast fashion retailers such as China’s Shein, Temu, and Alibaba’s AliExpress. The law aims to reduce environmental damage caused by large volumes of cheap clothing through environmental levies and advertising restrictions.
Under the legislation, companies classified as “fast fashion” will be charged environmental fees based on production volume and business model. From this year, each item will be taxed between €0.25 and €6, with the penalty gradually increasing to a potential €10 per item by 2030. However, fines cannot exceed half the pre-tax retail price. Revenue will be used to fund textile recycling and reuse infrastructure.
The law also bans advertising by fast fashion brands, including promotions via social media influencers. Companies are required to display messages on their websites encouraging consumers to reuse and repair clothing and to reduce impulse buying, promoting more sustainable consumption habits.
French Trade Minister Serge Papin said platforms such as Temu, Shein, and AliExpress have rapidly expanded in recent years, driving mass-produced, low-cost, rapidly changing products that fuel a “disposable fashion” culture, making regulation necessary.
According to the United Nations Environment Programme, the textile and fashion industry accounts for around 8% to 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions—more than international aviation and shipping combined. The French government believes the new law will help reduce overconsumption and textile waste.
However, the law primarily targets online ultra-fast fashion platforms, while European brands such as Zara, H&M, and Kiabi are not currently included, drawing criticism from some lawmakers. The legislation still requires presidential approval and may face scrutiny under EU law.
Commentary:
France has long been seen as a leader in environmental policy in Europe. Even during recent heatwaves, Paris and other cities have resisted widespread air-conditioning in public buildings, reflecting a consistent commitment to environmental protection, despite ongoing debate.
The same logic applies to its action against Shein and Temu. Ultra-fast fashion relies on low prices, mass production, and rapid turnover, driving a culture of disposable consumption. Environmental taxes and advertising restrictions may therefore help encourage more sustainable consumption patterns.
However, if the law only targets Chinese platforms while excluding global fast fashion brands such as Zara and H&M—despite their similarly high-volume and fast-changing production models—questions arise over fairness. If France truly aims to reduce the fashion industry’s environmental impact, regulation should be based on environmental footprint rather than brand origin, ensuring consistency rather than selective enforcement.