Walking into Aru – by Sunda chef Khanh Nguyen and Adi Halim (owner of Sunda and The Hotel Windsor) – the first thing you’ll notice is the blazing woodfire hearth. The second is the sheer number of chefs and staff gracefully criss-crossing the room.
The busy kitchen occupies one side of the narrow Little Collins Street restaurant; on the other, diners perch on cosy banquettes and curved timber chairs.
Typically, it’s living room lights that shine through the curtains on sleepy Gamon Street. From behind one gauzy grey set, though, comes the glow of Navi. Beneath a corrugated and wrought-iron awning is the door to chef Julian Hills’s first restaurant, where rigorous European technique meets native ingredients and Eastern philosophy.